Thursday, September 8, 2011

thank you hurricane katia...

...for not making landfall and giving us three foot swells.


Despite the rain we packed up Tuesday afternoon and headed for good harbor beach for my second surfing lesson. Keep in mind my first was four years ago in Santa Barbara, it was a sunny 75 degrees, and Rich was actually in the water next to me talking me through the whole thing. This one consisted of Rich giving me a pep talk in the car, a 5 min tutorial on the beach, mostly on how to get the wet suit on, and then telling me to just go on out there, but don't get in any of the other surfers way. While Rich and JOnas ran up and down sand dunes, I started paddling and could already fell the board wobbling underneath me and I knew it wasn't going to be as easy as I had hoped.


But I didn't drown, even though my arms felt like they were going to fall off from all that paddling. I didn't get in anybody's way, or even get hypothermia. Mostly it was just nice to be out there in the ocean on my own, watching the rain fall on the water, and scared out of my wits every time I noticed a huge wave bearing down on me.



It didn't take too long for me to be done, so Rich went out and Jonas and I played on the beach. I don't think he even cared that it was raining or a little chili. It's probably a good thing he likes the beach so much, since Rich checks the swell report religiously these days, and I definitely could use a few more lessons.

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